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Building and Sailing Thlaloca
Dos

Thlaloca
Dos was
launched in May of 1975. In November we set sail for points south; sailing
inside and outside depending on wind and weather. We arrived in
Florida
early the following year. Eventually we sailed
south as for as
Boot
Key
Harbor
. There we spent most enjoyable two months in
company with other boats, mainly Jaeger--"Bubba"
and Linda Schill--and ”Bing" and Jane Grimsrud on Dursmirg. Boot Key harbor in those days was a far cry from
what it is today, overcrowded.
In May, our course set for
Bermuda
: we got to after an uneventful passage. Falmouth,
England, was next. It was the year of one of the Single-handed Transatlantic
Race's from
Plymouth
,
England
to
Newport
, R. I. . Listen in on the reports it spoke of
terrible weather; of lost boats and lives. At that point our position was some
300 miles south of the bad weather area. We lay hove-to for lack of wind! The
weather being so gorgeous, we were varnishing. But all along we had
difficulty keeping our eyes away from the northern quadrant from where an
unbelievably huge swell was coming from. The swell was literally the height
of a mountain range, and perhaps half a mile between crests. It had us
very much concerned. When these mountains rolled underneath the boat, we looked
into an abyss which seemed as deep as the
Grand Canyon
. The last time we observed such phenomenon was in
the
Indian
Ocean
,
sailing in Thlaloca. But nothing extreme happened. Three hundred miles west of the
Scilly Islands
, a westerly wind increased to force 10. No
problem, however, T.D. (we refer to our good ship) did nobly, no sweat.
After a long passage, a landfall feels pretty good, and
Falmouth
was no exception; more so to our dog, Dinghy. She
was not allowed ashore, and this put her in a foul mood. Our next landfall,
Calais
,
France
was more dog friendly. There, after 35 days
aboard, she sniffed the hind ends of other dogs for the first time again. We
sailed as far as
Amsterdam
, where we moored the boat in a marina while
visiting family and friends in
Germany
.
Mid September we were ready to leave but a southwesterly wind blew too
strong, which made departure impossible–and the
English Channel
, in
inclement weather, is no place to fool around with. It curtailed our departure
for a week. It was already October when we made Falmouth–considered late for
crossing the
Bay of Biscay
. To make things worse, the wind kept on blowing hard from the southwest
day after day. Desperation drove us
to a foolish move, we left.
South of
Ushant
, the wind increased, eventually to storm force
(Beaufort 11), we lay a hull. It was cold and extremely uncomfortable, and with
a deadly coast to leeward intensely worrisome. Those were the longest 26 hours
in our lives. Once it had moderated enough to carry sails again, we were unable
to continue because the storm had mangled our selfsteering to pieces of twisted
steel. We decided on sailing back to
Falmouth
, where we, with the help of friends, repaired the
damage. By that time it was almost Christmas, and we were in no mood to leave.
Thus we spent an unpleasant winter in
Falmouth
; unpleasant because
Falmouth
attracts gales like a swamp does mosquitoes.
The following spring we sailed to
Germany
once more. Six weeks later we were back in
Falmouth
and in August crossed the
Bay of Biscay
. Onward we sailed to
Madeira
, the
Canary Islands
, the
West Indies
, and home to
Virginia
.



In
1981 we were ready for another voyage. Two weeks after leaving the mouth of the
Chesapeake Bay, we arrived in the Azores. We had a lot of wind, consequently we
were rewarded with a fast passage. On three occasions T.D. sailed over two
hundred miles a day with not much more than a triple-reefed main’ and
stays’l. Between the Azores and Portugal, the wind blew very strong from
the north (Portuguese Trades). We were the happiest people once we had rounded
Cabo St. Vincente, and were safely anchored in the lee of it.
At Gibraltar we passed into the Mediterranean, and wintered in Alicante. It is a most attractive city, and the harbor safe in any
kind of weather. Early
spring of the following year we
meandered past Corsica, Italy, Greece, and as far east as Turkey.
From
there we back-tracked to the south coast of France, where the mast was laid, and
we took on the Rivers Rhóne, Saóne, Mosell and Rhine. Opposing strong currents
made us appreciate a powerful engine. Still, on occasions, our progress was
reduced to half a knot. Despite some limitations–currents and several hundred
locks–a trip through the European waterways is highly recommended.
We
entered the Baltic Sea at Travmünde, Germany, where T.D. got her mast back.
From there we sailed to Sweden, Denmark, Norway, and across the North Sea to
Scotland. A wonderful country with equally wonderful people, no doubt, but it
rained every day of the six weeks we were there. We remember taking a bus ride.
Sitting behind the driver, I happened to look through the windshield and spotted
a glimmer of the sun. I was so surprised that I blared out, “Look, the sun!”
The driver, equally surprised by my outburst, retorted very casually in his
strong Scottish accent, ”Sure glad
you pointed it out to me, mate, now I know what the sun looks like!”
Leaving
Ireland for Spain, moderate to strong southwesterly winds gave us a hard time.
Once in Portugal, the north with all its unpleasant weather–rain, fog,
gales–was behind us and we looked forward to enjoying the distinctive southern
ambiance; perpetual sunshine; gorgeous people; lovely music.
Via
the beautiful island of Madeira we sailed to the Canary Islands. There, a
thousand boats were waiting for the end of the hurricane season to cross the
Atlantic, to the Americas. We were one of them! We eventually sailed to the Cap
Verde Islands, and from there to Martinique in the West Indies. Back in Virginia
we looked back to five wonderful years of cruising, and patted our ship in
appreciation for a job well done--above all that she saved our skins at least
once when it looked like we were in deep, deep trouble.

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