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Building and Sailing Thlaloca Dos

Deck & Rig

Thlaloca Dos' deck plan is straight forward. Looking at the majority of today’s boats, a cutter rig seems the most preferred by far. It wasn’t always like that. In former days, a ketch rig was more prevalent. Not so in Europe, were cutters are abound, and from where I got the idea early on. The advantage lies in the simplicity of the rig. And this means essentially: only one mast, therefore a lot less rigging and number of sails required–not to mention the saving of muchas dineros! The second mast, the mizzen, also restricts the cockpit and aft deck areas. Having said all that, one should not discount some solid advantages of a yawl or a ketch. And the main I judge to be its ability to carry small sails for and aft in heavy weather. The occasional gale may not justify carrying a second mast, but the ability to spread an enormous area of sail in light winds does. Also, a mizzen keeps a boat much more staple at anchor. Like all things in life, everything is a trade-off. We are happy with what we have, and the person with some other rig is likewise.

We carry our hard dinghy on davits over the stern. Very few hard dinghies are seen nowadays. Inflatables are easier to handle and raise less hell with topsides. But they are expensive and vulnerablemeaning a lot more attractive to be stolen! We put a sailing rig on ours, and this gives us enormous latitude in exploring while the big boat is at anchor. During extended crossings we lash it on the foredeck. While we are aft, there is a wind vane self-steering. I built it and it works just great. In contrary moderate wind or calm an Autopilot 4000 does an equally fine job steering T.D. being equipped with a hydraulic steering.

The foredeck sports a solid and substantial piece of teak, functioning as a bowsprit, which supports a 45lbs. CQR anchor. 200 hundred feet of 3/8 chain are stored in the forward bilge. In general we anchor the boat with a chain/rope combination. The stored chain is for heavy weather, for which we have additionally a 75lbs. stock and an 85lbs.  Danforth anchors. The windlass, unfortunately, is suitable only for rope.

The mast is stepped on top the cabin in a tabernacle. We wanted it that way for easy removal because our aim was to cruise the French and other canals extensively.  Siggi and I are able to do it in about three hours of work. We did it twice, but since came to the conclusion that the money spent having it done professionally (or at least with the help of a crane) is “peanuts” compared to all that work and worry. Still, with some improvements in the setup it could be a money saver, and a safety factor in case of emergency.

The mast is made by Sound Spar and is 47 feet long and tapered. Required clearance is 52 feet. Solid steps facilitate easy maintenance. Two Furlex® roller furls take care of the fores’ls. The rigging is 1x19x5/16, 316 stainless steel with Sta-Loc® fittings throughout. Those were installed when we purchased new rigging in 1997. These fittings are rather expensive but well worth the investment for a variety of reasons, and far superior to swaged type fitting where the stressed part of a wire, just as it exits the fitting, becomes the weakest part of the wire. For those interest reading more about this subject, here is an excellent link:  Sailboat Rig Problems - J. Stormer

The deck is laid teak. Most of it was replaced in the middle 90ties. For many years we tried to keep it protected with Cetol, but eventually found it a futile effort--not that it failed to protect, rather the unsightly appearance of the deck after many application. Also, it made the deck much too slippery. 

A few words about Teak decks; properly laid it is a delight to look at. How to maintain it that way is another story. What is prevalent for most people, included myself, we chose the easy way—trenching it with chemicals which promise wonders, and initially it does. However, after treatments of that kind over several years, the downside is shock and disbelieve because the chemicals has nibbled away the soft mass between the yearlings (the hard core). To make it smooth again one has to sand it and in the process expose the fastenings. The next step it removing them and sink them deeper (if enough “meat” is left) re-bung the lot until the next time. If one has not learned then about how to properly maintain a teak deck, the final answer is replacing the entire decking—a bitter and costly experience. From that moment on, we only maintain our deck scrubbing it with Scot-pads moving about on our knees.

During an Old-Timer-Treff in the Baltic, we inspected 100+years old sailing vessels with teak decks in perfect condition, so everything is possible with the right care. True, in those years when the vessels were built, the teak was certainly of much superior quality than what it is today.  

 

Photo by Giny Adcock

 

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